Does Thicker Cashmere Mean Better Quality?
When choosing cashmere, it's easy to assume that thicker means warmer, softer and ultimately better. But cashmere quality is a little more complicated than that.
A substantial winter sweater and a featherlight cashmere top can both be beautifully made. The difference is not necessarily quality. It is often a question of purpose, fibre selection and construction.
So what should you actually look for?
Fibre Fineness: Where Quality Begins
Cashmere is prized for its remarkably fine, soft undercoat fibres. Their diameter is measured in microns (μm), with one micron equal to one-thousandth of a millimetre.
In general, finer fibres produce a softer feel against the skin, although softness also depends on fibre length, processing, yarn construction and finishing.
This is an important distinction: fibre fineness and fabric thickness are not the same thing.
A thicker sweater can be made from fine fibres, just as a lightweight knit can be made from fibres of varying quality.
Yarn Thickness: What Does Two-Ply Mean?
After cashmere fibres are cleaned and prepared, they are spun into yarn.
A ply refers to an individual strand of yarn. Two-ply yarn is typically made by twisting two single yarns together, which can help improve yarn balance, strength and consistency.
But two-ply doesn't automatically mean thicker or better.
The final thickness depends on the size of the individual yarns, the number of strands used and how the garment is knitted.
For example, some designs in Sara Dugar's Soft Steppe collection use a yarn specification of 2/26 × 1: a two-ply yarn used as a single strand in the knitting process.
It is a construction choice, not a universal quality rating.
Knit Gauge: Why Some Cashmere Feels Lighter
Another important factor is knit gauge, commonly abbreviated as GG.
Gauge refers to the number of knitting-machine needles per inch. A higher gauge generally allows for finer, more closely spaced stitches when paired with an appropriate yarn.
A 12-gauge knit can create a relatively fine, lightweight fabric, while a 7-gauge knit typically uses larger stitches and may accommodate a heavier structure.
In selected Soft Steppe designs, 12 GG is used for the body and 7 GG for ribbed trims.
This combination allows different parts of a garment to have different textures and functions.
Again, neither gauge is inherently superior. Each serves a design purpose.
What About Fibre Length?
Fibre length also matters.
Longer cashmere fibres can contribute to yarn strength and help reduce loose fibres working their way to the surface. Shorter fibres are generally more prone to shedding and pilling, although yarn construction, finishing and wear also influence how a garment performs.
That is why judging cashmere solely by how soft it feels in the shop can be misleading.
A well-made garment needs to offer more than an appealing first touch.
So, Is Thicker Cashmere Better?
Not necessarily.
Thicker cashmere can offer greater substance, warmth and structure. Lightweight cashmere can provide beautiful drape, softness and versatility.
Neither is automatically better.
The real question is whether the fibre, yarn and construction are appropriate for the garment's intended purpose.
When choosing cashmere, look beyond thickness. Consider how it feels, how it is constructed, how it fits your wardrobe and whether the maker provides meaningful information about its materials.
Because good cashmere is not simply about having more of it.
It is about knowing what goes into it.